Carding is a specific way of processing fibers. The yarns are produced using virgin fibers but also reusing fibers obtained from recycling old clothing or knits, and cuttings of new fabrics used in the garment industry. The important feature of this process is that it can use short fibers and different lengths, in blends of the most variable composition. The result is a yarm with a particular aspect that distinguishes it from the other type of yarm knows as worsted.
Regenerated wool provided, for over a century, a phenomenal opportunity for the development and growth of the textile district of Prato on world markets.

 

The techniques of the “recycling process” in addition to being fascinating to watch, indicate a culture that has concern for the environment, respect for human resources and a tradition of skill and serious professional entrepreneurship.
The use of regenerated fibers has been neglected in recent years with the discovery of new synthetics and the growing demand for more expensive virgin fibers, partly as the response to expanding economies and also to the new consumer logic.

 

In the carding process, this has led to increased creativity and the production of yarns that are even more unusual and precious in compositions with an inimitable fashion content. We now have “carded products in cashmere, angora, alpaca, mohair or other fine wools in blends with silk and viscose.

sorting

The used clothing or cuttings of new fabrics used by the garment industry are sorted according to quality and color. In some cases linings, buttons, zippers, etc., have to be removed from the clothing. This is an important aspect of the process where the “hand and eye” of the expert worker are essential.

Carbonizing

Carbonizing is a process that eliminates any vegetable impurities from the wool. Rags and cuttings are dry cleaned with hydrochloric acid, while new wool fiber is soaked in sulfuric acid.The treated fabrics or staples are then beaten to eliminate the carbonized particles.

Tearing

In this process, the rags become fiber again by being mechanically torn and washed: the two operations are carried out in tanks where the rags are forced by the current of the water through two pairs of cylinders with steel teeth that tear them. The fiber in then dried.


Tratto da “Il cardato pratese”
Di F. Magi e F. Ceccarelli, Prato 2002